3 Hours in ...

Osaka
3 Hours in ... is written by readers of The Asian Wall Street Journal to share their advice on how to spend a few hours of spare time in major cities in Asia.
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in Osaka, Japan.
Your Guide: David Hueston, sports writer, Kyodo News
Where He'd Go: Akiyoshi, a boisterous little yakitori ya , or grilled chicken shop, just off the northwest corner of Midosuji and Sennichimae-dori intersection in southern Osaka.

What He'd Do There: This place is for hungry people who want to have a good time and meet locals. While the prices are geared toward the average salaryman, the notoriously noisy staff call everyone shacho , which means company president, or they dub them a king or queen for the evening.
It's a narrow, smoky room, but you'll find it cozy rather than cramped once you've been welcomed by a resounding irass hai greeting from the top of every employees lungs. In between sake pouring and chicken-grilling, they joke with customers, sometimes in broken English. Don't be alarmed if you're asked to marry one of the staff or they yell out that your bill is one million yen. It's just Osakan humor. (And they aren't trying to rip you off, they are trying to make you look rich to the other customers.)
Why You Should Go: This loud, in-your-face restaurant breaks every stereotype of Japanese service. For 2,000-3,000 yen, you'll leave with a full stomach and a smile on your face -- even if you have to beg the staff to shut up.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

New Delhi
3 Hours in ... is written by readers of The Asian Wall Street Journal to share their advice on how to spend a few hours of spare time in major cities in Asia.
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in New Delhi.
Your Guide: Priya Ramani, e***or of the Indian e***ion of Cosmopolitan
Where She'd Go: To the Railway Museum in Chanakyapuri, next to the Embassy of Bhutan, to see the funky collection of trains from India's 140-year-old rail tra***ion.
What She'd Do There: Ramble through the railway yard filled with coaches and engines, including some of the world's oldest. It's great fun poking around the astounding range of steam locomotives, including my favorite, an odd little monorail that uses one oversized wheel.

There are armored cars used by the British in the world wars, cattle coaches and even India's first electric commuter trains from the 1930s. Especially interesting are the extravagant coaches of the maharajas. These ran on the private rail lines of India's princely states before 1947, the year of the country's independence from Britain. The main museum building houses a host of railway trivia -- from the skull of an elephant killed by a train to cutlery used in colonial-era coaches.
The museum is off the main tourist circuit so, apart from the occasional bunch of school children, you can usually wander in peace.
Why You Should Go: It's no more than a 15-minute ride from the airport and offers an offbeat look at India's recent history. The variety of locomotives, coaches and rail systems is a fair representation of India's diversity.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Seoul
3 Hours in ... is written by readers of The Asian Wall Street Journal to share their advice on how to spend a few hours of spare time in major cities in Asia.
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in Seoul.
Your Guide: Jasmin Blunck, office manager and researcher for AstroEast (HK) Ltd., an online Astrology site.

Where She'd Go: To Insa-dong, a small, pedestrian street in downtown Seoul that's lined with small shops selling Korean antiques, crafts, books and stationery. On the weekends, it is even more charming, as street performers take advantage of the car-free environment. Enter from the south where Pagoda Park intersects with Chongno Street.
What She'd Do There: Go shopping. It's a great place to buy tra***ional crafts, such as ceramic water-bird whistles or Korean celadon pottery. Best of all are the stationery stores full of calligraphy brushes, ink stones and rough-hewn handmade paper. The street has both Western coffee shops and tra***ional Korean teahouses and the narrow alleys on either side of the main drag are wonderful places to wander.
Why You Should Go There: Insa-dong is a welcome relief from the crowds and department stores of downtown Seoul.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Melbourne
3 Hours in ... is written by readers of The Asian Wall Street Journal to share their advice on how to spend a few hours of spare time in major cities in Asia.
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in Melbourne.
Your Guide: Christine Cheong, public relations manager for food and beverage at the Grand Hyatt, Hong Kong.
Where She'd Go: St. Kilda beach, minutes from the city center, for lunch at the popular Stokehouse restaurant followed by a walk through this vibrant area.
What She'd Do: The Stokehouse, in a 1920s building with amazing views of Port Philip Bay, is a Melbourne institution. There's a more formal upstairs restaurant but it's better to head to the outdoor section of the casual downstairs bistro right by the beach. Afterwards, rent a pair of rollerblades and cruise along the beach path, which goes for miles. Otherwise, walk up to cosmopolitan Acland Street for coffee and cake. This was where many Europeans settled and it's packed with European patisseries as well as hip modern cafes. On Sundays there's an arts and crafts market on the esplanade with vendors selling handmade jewelry, accessories and paintings.
Why You Should Go: St. Kilda has a very different pulse from the rest of Melbourne. It's great for people watching, especially in the summer when the beautiful set fly past the Stokehouse on their rollerblades or sunbathe on the beach. It gives a feel for the Aussie way of city life -- good food, a great glass of wine and a view of the sun and surf.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Auckland
3 Hours in ... is written by readers of The Asian Wall Street Journal to share their advice on how to spend a few hours of spare time in major cities in Asia.
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in Auckland.
Your Guide: Allan R. Gold, communication manager at McKinsey & Company.

Where He'd Go: To Devonport, a village on the peninsula just across the harbor from downtown. Catch the ferry from Queen's Wharf ferry terminal on Quay Street. It's just a 10-minute boat ride away, and costs only 7 New Zealand dollars (US$3).
What He'd Do There: In Devonport, you can walk around the historic streets lined with beautifully restored wooden villas, quaint arts-and-crafts stores and wine shops, where merchants take the time to offer tips on little-known New Zealand vineyards. Have a bite to eat at one of the numerous outdoor cafes, then go for a stroll along windswept Cheltenham beach, or walk to the top of Mt. Victoria, which is actually a hill, to admire the view.
Why He'd Go There: The visit provides spectacular views of the city skyline, the America's Cup Village, the harbor and its myriad boats.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Madrid
This Week: Making the most of your spare time in Madrid.
Where to Go: "Really the most colorful spot in Madrid," insists global industrial real-estate broker John Lonardo. "Especially after a late-night dinner meeting," raves Melissa Alonso, European marketing director for Art News. What's all the froth about? Churrosy chocolate, of course, especially at the Chocolateria San Gines, where the 107-year-old recipes for deep-fried sticks of sweet batter and a tar-thick hot chocolate are perhaps two of the best-kept secrets in the Spanish capital. Dunking is a custom. The action turns messy between midnight and 7 a.m., when the white-tiled cafe fills with locals from the nearby nightclubs in the heart of Madrid's oldest district.
What to Do: "Go to the kitchen and beg for the recipe for the best cup of hot chocolate in the world," Mr. Lonardo says. If in doubt over whom to speak with, track down waiter Luis Almachi. He knows tricks involved with heating the milk and bittersweet chocolate to 90 degrees, then bringing the mixture down to 80 degrees, all the while stirring as fast as you can. After that, dunk away and tap your feet on the old wood floor to the sound of music and watch the comings and goings of flamenco dancers taking a break from work.
Where to Pause: During the day, the facade of the medieval San Gines church and the ancient alleyway that weaves past the chocolateria's outdoor tables is the setting for a bookselling market that's been here since 1850. At night a ticket to the nearby Teatro Real, Madrid's opera house, is a grand way to get into the mood for what's to follow at the hot chocolate cafe. And if hot chocolate and pencil-thin slivers of crispy batter aren't part of your diet, order up a refreshing glass of horchata, a cooling, foam-covered drink brewed from freshly picked Valencia chufa beans.
Chocolateria San Gines, Pasadizo de San Gines 5, Madrid. Tel. +34-91-365-6546. Open: October to May, 7 p.m.-7 a.m., Tues.-Sun.; June to September, 10 p.m.-7 a.m., Tues.-Sun.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Munich.
Where to go: The Glyptothek (Koenigsplatz 3, tel.+49-89-28-6100), a collection of antique Greek and Roman sculpture. From the main train station (which offers links to the airport by rail or taxi), take the U2 subway one stop to Koenigsplatz. Or walk via Luisenstrasse, bordering the city's old botanical gardens.
What to do: The Glyptothek is near enough to the main station for a last-minute visit before leaving town, but its serene forum-like setting seems far away from Munich's bustle. King Ludwig I (grandfather of the "mad" king) commissioned the building resembling a Greek temple in the early 1800s to hold some of the best of ancient statuary. The name Glyptothek? Completely made up.
The museum, laid out in a square around a green courtyard, is small enough that even a quick visit makes sense. Inside connecting halls with vaulted ceilings modeled on the Pantheon form a backdrop for statues from as far back as 570 B.C. The white-washed brick interior with stone floors is peaceful, but well-thought-out themes in the various halls keep the collection interesting. Among the most famous pieces are an ancient carving of a sleeping Satyr (no fig leaves here) and a Medusa head that Goethe was fond of. A larger hall featuring several dozen carved images of Roman personages mounted on pedestals resembles a ****tail party with the ancients. Opening times: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday-Sunday 10 a.m.-17 p.m.; Tuesday and Thursday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Where to pause: For a quick snack, the museum has a cafe overlooked by the headless statue of a Sphinx that once crowned a temple. The cafe offers sandwiches, cake and coffee, and Italian aperitifs.
Otherwise, restaurants are sparse in the area immediately around the museum. But for those heading back to Munich city center with some time to spare, locals recommend Andechser am Dom (Weinstrasse 7a, tel.+49-89-29-8481) for well-prepared Bavarian specialties and beer made by the monks of Andechs. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to midnight.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Vienna.
Where to go: Karlsplatz, next to the Cafe Museum and just a short walk from the city center.
What to do: Vienna's sewer system might not be the first stop on most travel itineraries but for fans of "Third Man," the 1949 classic black-and-white spy thriller starring Orson Welles as Harry Lime, it's a must-see. A few years ago, the city opened up a portion of the underground network, where the film's climatic sequence was shot, to tours. On the most popular tour, which bills itself as the "Return of the Third Man," (tel. +43-1-795-14-93018) visitors descend into the canal system where they are treated to a re-enactment of some of the film's more exciting scenes. The tour's organizers caution against anyone with "heart trouble or spinal problems' from taking part, however. For a less theatrical approach, there is a torch-lit tour offered in the evening (tel. +43-1-408-3303) that deals more with the specifics of the canal system.
Where to pause: For hardcore Third Man enthusiasts, the cafe or bar at the Hotel Sacher (Philharmonikerstrasse 4, tel. +43-1-514-560), which was featured prominently in the film, is a safe bet and only a five-minute walk. The Cafe Mozart (Albertinaplatz 2, tel. +43-1-513-08-810), which also appears in the film, is just around the corner from Sacher. For a more intimate surrounding, try the Loos Bar (Kaerntnerstrasse 10 tel. +43-1-512-3283), a small watering hole designed by fin-de-siecle architect Alfred Loos. The Kleines Cafe (Fransikanerplatz) is another favorite among locals. If you can find a table, try one of the open-faced sandwiches, which are topped with everything from tuna to mixed vegetables.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Amsterdam.
Where to go: The museum district housing next to each other the Van Gogh Museum (Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel: +31-20-570-5200), the StedelijkMuseum of Modern Art (Paulus Potterstraat 13, tel: +31-20-573-2911) and the Rijksmuseum (Stadhouderskade 42, tel: +31-20-674-7000) for their rich, permanent collections and often trend-setting exhibitions.
What to do: At the Stedelijk Museum, visit the just opened exhibition celebrating the 80th birthday of Karel Appel, the Netherlands' best known contemporary painter and a founder of the 1950s CoBrA movement. While in museum famous for its discussion-provoking programs, don't miss the Khardzhiev Collection that includes paintings and drawings by Russians Malevich, Larionov, Goncharova and Rozanova. The Van Gogh Museum next door houses the world's largest collection of works by the 19th-century Dutch artist. Just up the street, the Rijksmuseum, is in between exhibitions as it gears up for the June 16 opening of "Two Golden Ages," comparing 19th-century Danish paintings to the Dutch works that inspired them.
Not to miss -- the Rijksmuseum's permanent collection of some one million pieces, including some of the most important works by 17th-century Dutch painters like Rembrandt, Vermeer, Frans Hals and Jan Steen.
Where to pause: All three museums have cafes with elaborate lunch menus and outside terraces. For those who want a break from the galleries, Small Talk (Willemsparkweg 1, tel: +31-20-662-0029) just opposite the Stedelijk Museum offers lunch and dinner choices ranging from international to Dutch to Indonesian and is popular among businessmen and affluent shoppers. The more adventurous may want to dine at the Supper Club (Jonge Roelensteeg 21, tel: +31-20-638-0513), a 10-minute streetcar ride further into town with line 5. Supper Club is famous for its combination of dining and dancing. Diners lie on pillows next to a low table and receive a fixed menu inspired by Pakistani, Indian, French and Italian cooking. Tarot-card readers are happy to divine your future during the meal.
A short walk from Amsterdam's museum district lies PC Hooftstraat, the city's most prestigious shopping street lined with designer stores and gourmet cafes. Also a short stroll away is the Oude Spiegelstraat famous for its antique shops.

Despair is not Hopeless!​

Frankfurt.
Where to go: Museum fuer Moderne Kunst (Domstrasse 10, tel. +49-69-212-30447), a modern-art museum nicknamed "the wedge of cake" ("Tortenstueck") for the unusual triangular building designed by Viennese architect Hans Hollein.
What to do: Visiting this museum perched on a corner in the heart of Frankfurt is as much about exploring the building as the collection it houses -- though the works by Jasper Johns, Joseph Beuys, Claes Oldenburg, Andy Warhol and others could easily carry any location. The architecture reflects the difficult shape of a vacant site available for the museum when it was planned in the 1980s. The postmodern cream-and-rose colored building is striking from the outside, but it doesn't stop there: Inside, curved walls meet angles, stairs converge like those in an M.C. Escher painting, and slanted windows and skylights offer unexpected glimpses of the town outside. In the permanent exhibit, don't miss "Tischgesellschaft" by Katharina Fritsch, an eerie installation of identical men facing off at a long table.
Where to pause: For immediate refreshment, the museum cafe "Triangolo" offers drinks and an upscale Italian menu in a sleekly decorated and -- of course -- triangular space (tel. +49-69-28-9007).
If you are in the market for German souvenirs like ornate beer mugs or the blue pitchers known as "Bembels' for serving Frankfurt's specialty apple wine, head along the sidewalk toward the point of the "pie slice" museum, where you'll see the Frankfurter Dippemarkt ceramics store across the street (Fahrgasse 80 at the corner of Berliner Strasse). The large selection includes an array of kitschy garden gnomes.
A short walk from the museum is Frankfurt's massive Zeil pedestrian shopping street, which seques into the narrower cobble-stoned "Fressgasse" (eating alley), lined by cafes, gourmet food stores and chic boutiques.

Despair is not Hopeless!​