Phi Đội Gà Lôi _HONDA GL (Tầng 7)

When you''ve got a powerband that basically starts at 9000 rpm, you need to get the engine rpm spun up quickly, and the current ultra-short-stroke motors lack the low-end grunt to accelerate quickly through the first 5000 rpm. That means short gearbox ratios, and short final drive gearing (sprockets). With gearing this short in the current 600 class, could we possibly extract any more performance by lowering it even more?

OLL-ONS AND QUARTER-MILE ACCELERATION
The roll-on acceleration test consisted of running the bikes up to 60 mph (measured with a radar gun, due to the speedometer error incurred by changing sprockets), then accelerating for an eighth-mile in both top gear and fourth gear, measuring trap speed at the end of the eighth-mile run. Quarter-mile was your standard run-and-gun NHRA-length dragstrip at LACR (Los Angeles County Raceway) in Palmdale, California.
We made the usual runs with the stock gearing to establish a baseline, then changed the countershaft sprocket on both bikes to a one-tooth smaller unit (15-tooth on both the Honda and the GSX-R). We then lowered the gearing further by fitting a 47-tooth on the Suzuki (stock is 45-tooth), and a 43-tooth on the Honda (stock is 40-tooth).
The results in the roll-ons were predictable. Major gains were apparent in both gears, with mph picking up drastically in fourth gear roll-ons. In fact, check out how the little GSX-R came very close to nipping at the RC51''s heels with just the smaller countershaft sprocket. If you can put up with increased rpm at cruising speeds on the highway, there''s some major performance gains to be had with revised gearing.

The quarter-mile runs were far less conclusive, which we can attribute to one thing: wheelies. Even the relatively midrange-weak GSX-R600 suddenly turned into a sky-shot monster with the shorter gearing, and the Honda was virtually impossible to launch using full throttle in first gear. Since the bikes weren''t lowered, their high center of gravity made them extremely wheelie-prone, which killed their ETs. However, note that the mph trap speeds increased with each gearing change, a sure sign that acceleration was much quicker. We are confident that taking the wheelie tendency out of the picture could shave up to a half-second from the ET. A quarter-mile run, unfortunately, requires that all 1320 feet are traversed as quickly as possible.

S IT WORTH IT?
There are other considerations in upgrading to aftermarket gearing on your bike. Switching to a smaller-size chain (from a standard 530 to a 520, the popular racing size), along with the matching sprockets, can drop some weight in both rotating and unsprung masses.
But there''s no doubt that the major appeal lies in the fact that, from a performance per dollar ratio, it''s hard to beat upgraded gearing. It''s about as simple to install as an aftermarket exhaust, yet isn''t as readily visible. Literally free horsepower for the taking.

Chain and Sprockets
When choosing a new chain and sprockets for your scoot, there are a number of things to take into consideration. A popular modification for racers is to replace a stock machine''s 530 chain with a thinner and lighter 520 series chain and matching sprockets. Generally, roller chain is denoted as follows: the first digit specifies the chain''s pitch, in 1_8-inch increments. The remaining digits correspond to the width of the chain in 1_80 of an inch. A 530 chain, then, has a pitch of 5_8 inch, and a width of 30_80 inch, or 3_8 inch. A 520 chain is 1_4-inch wide, correspondingly lighter, but also somewhat weaker than a 530 chain. There are some exceptions to this; For instance, 125GP machines utilize a 428 chain, which is a 425-sized chain with slightly thicker sideplates. Front sprockets are usually steel, but rear sprockets are available in either steel (which is somewhat heavy but lasts a long time) or aluminum (lighter, but less wear resistant).
Most stock bikes are equipped with an O-ring chain, and are endless-there is no link to split the chain for removal, and it has to be "broken." Replacement chains generally utilize either a rivet-type link, which must have the pin ends peened for assembly, or a clip-type link. A rivet link is generally stronger and less likely to come apart on its own, whereas a clip link is easier to assemble/disassemble but may come undone. If you use a clip link, safety wire around the sideplate and clip to hold it on, or use a dab of silicone sealant on the clip.An O-ring chain employs tiny rubber seals between each plate and roller to keep the chain permanently lubricated. While it does add weight, this style of chain lasts longer and requires less maintenance than a non O-ring chain. The small seals may seem to add friction also, but once in use the grease thins out due to the induced heat, and an O-ring chain may spin as freely as a non O-ring unit.

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Both styles, however, need periodic lubrication. The non O-ring variety more so-the O-ring type only to displace water and stop the outer surfaces from rusting. Use the appropriate type of lube-some spray-on types may damage the rubber O-rings-and oil your chain immediately following a ride. This will give the maximum amount of time for the oil to soak in. Always apply the lubricant from the inside of the chain, because centrifugal force will help the oil penetrate, rather than fling it on your tire. -A.T.
HẾT Ạ, MAI SẼ LÀ CHUYÊN MỤC BẢN VẼ KỸ THUẬT.

Bác Khâu đừng nói thế em buồn. EM muốn chia sẻ kỹ thuật cho ae GL học tập kô lại mang tiêng là văn dốt võ dát. Vừa học kỹ thuật, vừa học tiếng Anh cho nó máu. Mai sau ae văn võ song toàn, 2 tay 2 súng, sủa tiếng anh như hát hay, bàn về vấn đề kỹ thuật choanh choách, các bác nhớ cảm ơn em nhá

Chẳng hỉu cái giè cả?? phiền bác dịch dùm ra tiếng VIệt, mà chắng có cái gì liên quan đến Gà Lôi nhà ta cả??

Liên quan chứ bác, em đang giới thiệu về nhông xích mà, bác nhìn ảnh 1 lúc cũng hiểu mờ