Sidecar - Profile

Exercise 3
STARTING AND STOPPING THE ENGINE
The purpose of this exercise is to practice starting and stopping the engine. The rig remains stationary, so you don''t need any practice area. Starting the engine takes a combination of preparation and kicking technique.
Prepare for starting:
1. Main ignition switch ON.
2. Fuel valve ON.
3. Transmission in NEUTRAL.
4. Reverse lever in NEUTRAL. (forward position)
5. Carburetor chokes down (depending on temperature)
6. Air shutter CLOSED (as required depending upon temperature).
7. Cutoff switch to RUN position.
8. Release parking brake if set.
9. Roll the outfit forward and back to ensure transmission is in neutral.
Start the engine
1. Stand up on the passenger peg and push down briskly on the kick starter to spin the
engine. The engine should start within three or four kicks.
2. Roll on enough throttle to keep the engine running at a fast idle.
Open air shutter lever halfway as soon as the engine starts and lift up chokes if they are on. Then gradually open air shutter fully as engine warms up.
Note: Starting the engine becomes easier as you gain experience. If the temperature is cool or the engine hasn''t been run for a while, keep the air shutter closed for three or four kicks. If it doesn''t start, it may have become flooded with excess fuel. To clear the fuel, open the air shutter, roll the throttle full open, and kick it through several times. Before attempting to start it again, check that the ignition switch is ON (look for the red generator light), and the cutoff switch is in the RUN position.
Caution: If the outfit begins to pull forward as you push down on the start lever, that means the transmission is still in gear. Be certain the transmission is in neutral for starting.
Stop the engine, park the outfit.
1. Turn the cutoff switch to the stop position to stop the engine.
2. Turn off the main switch and remove key.
3. Close the fuel valve.
4. Shift to first gear.
5. Check transmission in gear by rolling outfit forward and back.
6. Set parking brake.
Exercise 4
LEARNING TO USE THE CLUTCH IN FORWARD AND REVERSE

The purpose of this exercise is to practice using the clutch to help the engine start the outfit rolling, and to practice using reverse. Until further notice, either keep ballast in the sidecar or carry a passenger whenever driving the rig.
Prepare for starting the engine. If the parking brake is set, leave it set until you get the engine started. Open the fuel valve and turn on the main ignition switch. Shift the transmission to neutral and release the clutch. If the engine is already warm from just being run, you won''t need to use the air shutter. Start the engine and let it warm up.
Climb aboard, press the rear brake pedal, and release the parking brake. Squeeze the clutch lever, shift down into 1st gear. You''re ready to roll.
Gradually ease out the clutch and roll on a little throttle until the outfit begins to move forward, then squeeze the clutch and let the outfit slow down. Continue to ease out the clutch lever and then squeeze it again until you are familiar with the friction point where the engine begins to pull the outfit forward. If the engine stalls, you must shift the transmission to neutral and kick start it again.
When you are familiar with using the clutch in forward, practice using the clutch in reverse. Stop, shift to neutral, push the reverse lever firmly back to reverse, then ease out the clutch to back up. If your >URAL is reluctant to shift into reverse, shift into first, then push down on the heel pad while shifting the reverse lever back. Shifting the reverse lever forward again puts the transmission in neutral.
Drive the outfit back to the perimeter, and use reverse to back it into the parking place. Stop the engine and park the outfit as in the previous exercise. If you leave the transmission in reverse, remember to shift it back to neutral before attempting to start it again.
Exercise 5
DIRECT STEERING
(oval, left turn)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice smooth throttle and steering control while making left turns. Continue to either keep ballast in the sidecar or have a passenger ride in the sidecar until further notice.
Prepare for starting , start engine, and prepare to drive the outfit. (as in previous exercises)

Shift into first gear, gradually roll on a little throttle and ease out the clutch to make the outfit move forward. As the outfit begins to move away, ease out the clutch all the way, and roll on just enough throttle to keep the engine pulling.
Ride around the two large circles in a counterclockwise direction (continuous left-hand turns). Roll off the throttle to slow down as you approach each turn. Steer the front wheel towards the turn, then roll on a little throttle to pull the sidecar around the motorcycle. Turn your head and look through each turn to where you want the outfit to go.
Continue around the oval, concentrating on smooth throttle control. As you gain familiarity with the throttle and steering, practice using the brakes to slow down for the corners. Then take the outfit to the perimeter, back into the parking space using reverse, and park it.
Notes:
1. With the single-wheel-drive models, remember to compensate for yaw by adjusting steering pressure as you accelerate or decelerate, to keep the rig on course.
2. If you are an experienced motorcyclist, remember that >URAL outfits don''t lean into turns. Concentrate on pointing the front wheel in the direction you want to go.
3. Remember that you must shift the transmission into neutral or low gear before engaging the reverse gear.
Exercise 6
WEAVING BETWEEN CONES L & R
(cones in straight line)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice steering both left and right, weaving between cones. (set in a straight line 25 ft. apart)

Prepare for starting, start engine, prepare to drive.
Note: for this and subsequent exercises, we assume you have mastered the starting "drill" and know what''s needed to get the outfit started and rolling.
Examine diagram on page 107 before beginning this exercise. Weave slowly between the cones. Point the front wheel in the direction you want to go. Turn around at the end and weave back. Remember to turn your head and look where you want to go. Allow enough space when turning right to avoid running over the cones with the sidecar wheel.
When you can weave between all the cones smoothly without running over any cones or stalling the engine, return to the perimeter and park the outfit.
Notes:
1. Cover the clutch (keep your fingers over the lever) but don''t squeeze it unless you need to stop.
2. Observe that the sidecar easily slows down when you are turning right, but must be accelerated when you are turning left. Drivers of single-wheel-drive models must compensate by adding sufficient pressure on the grips to point the front wheel in the desired direction of travel.

Exercise 7
STEERING AND SHIFTING BODY WEIGHT
(figure 8)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice shifting body weight while making both left and right turns. You''ll be riding a long figure 8. If you have a physical disability which prevents you from shifting your weight in the saddle, see note at end of this exercise.

Begin riding slowly around the figure 8 pattern. You will be making both left and right turns. Continue to roll off the throttle approaching either turn, then point the front wheel around the circle and roll on a little throttle as you go around.
After two laps, start leaning your body weight towards the inside of each turn. That is, in the left turn, lean your body over towards the left. In the right turn, lean your weight towards the sidecar. When riding straight ahead, sit upright in the center of the saddle. Continue to practice smooth throttle control while also leaning your body weight.
Notes:
1. Shifting body weight towards the inside of turns is an important skill, and is essential when driving the outfit later without weight in the sidecar. Sidecar drivers with physical disabilities which prevent sliding sideways in the saddle are advised to compensate by carrying ad***ional ballast in the sidecar, and by approaching right-hand turns more cautiously.
Caution: Engine thrust for the two-wheel-drive Sportsman will temporarily dissipate if either wheel loses traction. Shifting body weight into the turn helps maintain forward power by keeping the "inside" drive wheel firmly on the ground.
Exercise 8
STOPPING WITH BOTH BRAKES
(straight line)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice smooth, straight-line braking using both brakes. You will be riding down a straight line with cones at the end where you will apply the brakes. Allow adequate run out room beyond the braking cones. Examine the diagram on page 108 before beginning this exercise.
Drive down the "braking chute" in first gear, at about 18 mph.

As the front wheel passes the braking cones, squeeze the clutch, roll off the throttle, and apply both brakes smoothly to bring outfit to a complete stop. Come to a complete stop, check your mirrors as you would in traffic, then drive back to the start of the brake chute and practice again several times.


Notes:
1. The clutch should always be squeezed when braking to a stop.
2. On >URAL outfits, the sidecar brake is connected to the rear brake pedal. Depending upon brake adjustment and weight in the sidecar, the outfit may tend to yaw left or right while braking. Be prepared to adjust steering pressure on the handlebars to keep the outfit stopping in a straight line. If the outfit consistently yaws to one side during braking, or if you can''t apply full braking force, the brakes should be adjusted per the instructions in the Ownerâ?Ts Manual.
Exercise 9
STOPPING ON A CURVE
(fig 8 with braking cones at ends)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice braking while in a curve, both in left turns and in right turns. You will be riding the same figure 8 (page 108) as in previous exercises, except with braking cones added at the outside ends of the circles.

Begin driving around the figure 8. Continue to practice the recommended cornering techniques from previous exercises.
As the front wheel passes the braking cones, squeeze the clutch, roll off the throttle, and apply both brakes smoothly to bring the outfit to complete stop while still turning. After the outfit has come to a complete stop, continue around the figure-8 to the next turn.
Notes:
1. Because a motorcycle/sidecar combination is not symmetrical, it responds differently to braking in left vs. right turns. When braking, apply pressure on the grips as needed to keep the outfit pointed around the circle. In a left turn, the front tire may begin to slide if the brake is applied too suddenly. If the tire slides out while braking, use a little less front brake pressure to avoid skids during this exercise.
2. In a right turn, the sidecar may lift briefly if the brakes are applied too suddenly. Continue to lean your weight to the inside of the turns, even when practicing smooth braking.

Exercise 10
SHIFTING IN STRAIGHT LINE
(left oval with shift cones)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice shifting the transmission as you speed up and slow down. You''ll be riding an oval pattern, shifting up to second gear for the straights, and down to first gear for the turns.

Begin driving around the oval. Continue to practice the cornering techniques from previous exercises.
As soon as you straighten out from a turn, shift up to 2nd gear.
Just before entering the next turn, shift down into 1st gear.
Continue shifting up and down for several laps, until you are familiar with shifting the transmission, then return to the perimeter and park.

Notes:
1. When shifting up to second gear, move your heel over the heel pad, squeeze the clutch, roll off the throttle, and push down firmly on the lever. To shift back to first gear, get your toe over the front of the lever, squeeze the clutch, roll off the throttle a little, and push the toe down firmly.
2. Rolling off the throttle as you shift allows the engine to slow down. If the engine is revving too fast, the transmission may refuse to shift, or there will be a crunching noise. Smoother, quieter shifts will result as you learn to match engine revs to outfit speed.
Exercise 11
TURNING, BRAKING AND SHIFTING
(fig 8)
The purpose of this exercise is to practice the previous turning, braking, and shifting techniques together. You will be riding a figure 8 (page 108) pattern. Continue to practice the recommended cornering techniques such as leaning your weight towards the inside of turns, but now add shifting the transmission.
Begin driving around the figure 8.
Approaching each turn, brake as you shift into first gear. Lean your body weight towards the inside, release the brakes, and roll on just enough throttle to match RPMs and pull the outfit around the curve. As you straighten out, shift up into 2nd gear.
When you have mastered all of the techniques together, return to the perimeter and park the outfit.
Note:

1. This is a complex exercise, and it all happens very quickly, but these are the basic skills for controlling a sidecar combination. Spend at least 30 minutes on this exercise. Take a rest break and repeat if necessary. If you have difficulty putting it all together, go back to the previous exercises and practice them again. It is essential that you master these techniques before progressing to more advanced exercises.
Warning: Cornering too briskly can lead to tipovers in both left and right turns. Keep speed under control.

Chapter 4
DRIVING IN TRAFFIC
HOW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN
Biker Bob is on his way to the big sidecar rally. He''s been on the road most of the day and he''s just an hour away. Since Bob began riding his own outfit last year, he has heard a lot about sidecars, mostly from riding buddies. He has learned about direct steering, shifting his weight in the saddle and keeping the outfit straight while braking hard. He knows about staying out from behind busses in traffic and watching for left-turning cars at intersections.
Intellectually, Bob understands that sidecar outfits are motorcycles and that motorcycling carries with it increased risk of having an accident. So he wears a helmet, leather riding jacket, tall boots and durable gloves. But Bob has yet to discover what it really means to have a motorcycle crash. Bob doesn''t know it, but he won''t make it to the rally. In about 60 seconds he will get his turn to crash.
As he rides along today in a cold drizzle, circumstances are conspiring to ambush him. The rain that started a hundred miles back hasn''t let up. His riding gear has become soaked and miserable. A rattling pickup truck ahead is throwing dirty spray that clouds his vision. And now his faceshield is starting to fog up on the inside. But the worst effect of the weather has snuck up on him without announcing itself. He is chilled to the bone and hypothermia has quietly fogged his judgment and slowed his reactions.
Without warning, the decrepit pickup truck ahead suddenly slows and begins a left turn into a hidden driveway. Bob''s chilled brain doesn''t immediately comprehend what''s happening, because the truck''s brake lights are not working and the driver didn''t bother to signal. For a moment Bob just freezes on the grips. Finally, he makes the decision to brake, but the message is sluggish getting to his right hand. While Bob is still squeezing the brake lever in slow motion, the outfit slams into the back of the truck, spins around and flings Bob down on the pavement. Fortunately, he survives the crash. The worst injury is only a broken arm, but the ride is over for today and for the rest of the year.
In the months it takes for Bob''s fractured bones to knit, he will quietly weigh the pleasures of motorcycling against the risks which have been given new meaning by the ultimate lesson. "What went wrong?" Bob ponders. Is there something I could have done to avoid the crash? Should I have stayed closer to home? Or is crashing one of those inevitable pay backs for the pleasures of motorcycling? Will I have to go through this again every few years? If I know I''m going to crash sooner or later, do I really want to continue riding?" A lot of other motorcyclists have weighed similar thoughts after being involved in accidents.
What do you think? Was Bob allowing enough following distance for the wet pavement? Would he have gotten on the brakes in time if he hadn''t allowed himself to get chilled? Should he have swerved around the truck instead of trying to brake? Would he have been safer closer to home? Perhaps the most important question we could ask is this: Was Bob just a victim waiting for an accident to find him or was he really in control of the situation?
Investigations of motorcycle accidents hint that riders have very little time between the point where they realize an accident is happening and the point of impact. The median time between realization and impact is less than two seconds. Such statistics might lead us to believe that accidents happen very suddenly and we just don''t have time to react.
But there are also many veteran motorcyclists who rarely have close calls, let alone accidents. Are these veterans just lucky, are they really good at sudden evasive maneuvers or do they know something we don''t?

"Sudden" Collisions
The first thing to realize about collisions is that they seldom occur as suddenly as most crashees think. Now, if you "suddenly" realize you are on a collision course with a rattling pickup truck, just a second or two away from impact, the rest of the crash may seem awfully sudden. But the "suddenness" is often a matter of not observing what is happening until too late in the process, typically the last second or two. If you know where to look, how to look and what to look for, you can almost always spot a potential collision several seconds before the point of impact. And, once you understand what is happening, you can make a small correction to avoid riding into the problem.
Bob wouldn''t have been any safer staying close to home. More than half of all motorcycle accidents occur within five miles of home. 90% of motorcycle accidents occur in urban or suburban situations. One of the reasons why cities are so hazardous is just the amount of stuff going on all at once. We''ve got multiple lanes of traffic, vehicles weaving around in all directions, cross-traffic squirting out at intersections, double-parked cars, jaywalking pedestrians, aggressive bicyclists, roaring trucks, oil-dripping busses, slick plastic arrows, sunken railroad tracks, grated bridge decks, man-eating chuckholes and millions of traffic signs and signals.
All that stuff going on demands our attention at once and any one problem is capable of causing us grief. The paradox is that we''ve somehow got to be aware of all the hazards at once, but there are usually too many hazards to keep track of at any one moment. Shortly, we''ll share a few brainstorms on how to deal with this paradox.
Crashes are sometimes precipitated by poor riding skills. For example, a sidecarist enters a right-hand curve and suddenly realizes halfway through that the curve is tighter than expected. The sidecar starts to fly and the driver panics. The survival reaction is to roll off the throttle, jam on the brakes and steer left to keep from overturning. But those reactions may do more to cause a crash than help avoid one.
The correct tactic for sharp right-hand turns is to shift body weight towards the sidecar, stay on the gas and squeeze on enough front brake to control speed. Engine power keeps the motorcycle up on the suspension and forces the rear tire to drift sideways, helping the outfit to settle down. Such cornering skills aren''t obvious to the novice sidecarist. That''s why it is so important to learn and practice the correct riding techniques in the parking lot exercises before you take the outfit out onto the public roads.
To help us keep track of all that stuff around us in city traffic, let''s think through the various riding situations and consider some accident avoidance strategies. Then we will work through some advanced riding skills, including evasive maneuvers to avoid collisions.

STRATEGIES FOR AVOIDING ACCIDENTS
A motorcyclist has a lot of things to think about while motoring down the road. The situation continuously changes, demanding changes in speed, lane position, or following distance. While it is important to know the correct control skills, we might suggest that a large part of motorcycling happens inside the brain, rather than just at the grips and pegs.
Veteran motorcyclists seem to develop riding skills of a higher order, including an apparently magical "sixth sense" to predict what is going to happen before there are any obvious clues. Veterans also seem to have "automatic" responses to the changing con***ions.
There is no magic in this, but rather a well-honed set of riding habits and skills. For example, consider the situation of a motorcyclist who gets stuck in the wrong lane approaching the planned exit. The novice rider may panic and chance an impulsive dive through traffic. The veteran is more likely to avoid any impulsive moves, and concentrate instead on a change of plan, plotting an alternate route to the same destination. The habit of avoiding impulsive moves in traffic reduces the risk of collisions with vehicles that suddenly "come out of nowhere." Let''s consider how we can better keep track of what''s happening around us in traffic.
Separate The Hazards
The first important habit is to "separate" the hazards. Although it often seems as if everything is demanding our attention at once, it is often possible to separate our awareness of the hazards, if only by a few feet or a few milliseconds. We can''t make the other drivers move farther apart or go more slowly, but we can observe them over more distance or more time by looking farther ahead.
The farther ahead you spot trouble, the more time you will have to observe it, make a decision about it, and deal with it. You won''t have to do any sudden emergency maneuvers, because you can make a few simple adjustments early on, and just stay out of harm''s way. The safety folks often use the measurement "12 seconds" when describing how far ahead to look. That''s the distance you will be covering during the next 12 seconds, which translates into about as far ahead as you can see any details.
Looking 12 seconds ahead is a good habit, but the purpose is to observe what is happening down the road so that you can make intelligent decisions. "Observe" means really keeping your eyes moving to take in as much as possible, not just staring ahead with glazed eyeballs. As an example, try this exercise: go back and read the last paragraph again, but this time read one line at a time, and spend two seconds scrutinizing the world around you before reading the next line. See if you can remember what you''re reading while also observing details of what''s around: the current time, who else is in the room, the color of the car driving by, what pictures are on the wall behind you, the color of your socks.
It''s not easy, is it? There is a temptation to either look around and forget about reading, or continue reading and forget the observing. But don''t we do something very similar as we simultaneously ride the outfit and observe traffic around us? And consider this: once you record in your memory what time it is or who else is in the room, you don''t have to study those items again for a while. The only items you need to study on subsequent glances are things which have changed. It''s the same way in traffic. We need to glance at everything, but we can pay primary attention to those things which are in the process of changing into potential hazards. For example, the big rattling car transporter rolling along in the next lane may scream for attention, but the higher priority is the car waiting to turn left at the next intersection, because left-turners are the most common motorcycle hazard.

Intersections are danger zones where we especially need to focus our attention. Folks with poor judgment are very likely to make mistakes at intersections, pulling out in front of other drivers or making quick turns or jamming on the brakes or motoring through red lights. Recognize that "intersections" include anywhere vehicles can cross paths, whether on divided eight-lane arterials or where two lanes cross in the shopping mall parking lot. Statistically, about three-fourths of all "motorcycle" crashes are collisions with cars and about one-fourth of all "motorcycle" crashes are with the car driver making a quick left turn across the path of the motorcyclist. Never mind who is at fault, the motorcyclist is the one who more often gets hurt. So it is in our best interests to take charge of the situation.
Just as we can mentally separate our observation of what is happening around us, we can physically separate ourselves from hazards. We can move the outfit farther away from hazards and we can separate one hazard from another. For example, if the rattling car transporter is too much of a distraction being so close, you can speed up, slow down or change lanes to get farther away.
Since intersections are trouble enough, try to separate yourself from other hazards before you get to an intersection. If at all possible, move far away from trucks or busses that block your view. If you are being tailgated by an aggressive driver, take action to move farther away. Don''t allow yourself to be a victim of whatever happens and don''t permit hazards to multiply around you. Take control of the situation to continuously improve the odds in your favor.
CONSPICUITY
I Didn''t SEE You.
If you allow another motorist to run into you. youâ?Tll hear the same thing every time: "I didnâ?Tt see you." The errant driver may look down at you lying miserably crunched under your bent rug and say "Gosh, I didnâ?Tt see you. Besides, you didnâ?Tt have your headlight turned on." Certainly there are occasion when the other driver really couldnâ?Tt see the motorcyclist, but we have a strong suspicion that the explanation is really an excuse. we canâ?Tt expect errant drivers to say "I saw you but figured you would get out of my way."
The "I didnâ?Tt see you" excuse has led some safety experts to believe that the problem is simply that motorcyclists are hard to see in traffic. The solution, therefore, is to make us more conspicious--we could wear flamingo-pink leather, for example or add flashing beacons to our helmets. Most high-mileage mtorocyclists consider conspicuity gadgets more of a magic talisman that a safety device. (Magic talismans are supposed to ward off evil with no effort on the part of the wearer.) Conspicuity devices are based on the assumption that the other guy will get out of the way of the motorcyclist and thatâ?Ts not a smart assupmtion.
On the other hand, we can''t control every situation and we often depend upon other motorists to not run us over, like it or not. Other motorists don''t always comprehend how rapidly a motorcycle is approaching. And less experienced riders don''t know all the tricks of urban traffic. If you are just starting to learn the tactics of traffic survival, you really are more dependent upon other drivers to stay out of your way and you should help them out by being more conspicuous.
Here are some suggestions:

1. Before driving the outfit in traffic, check that your headlight, tail light and stop light are working. Use your turn signals. Flash your brake light to attract the attention of following drivers.
2. Consider lighter-color riding gear such as a tan, silver or bright blue or add brightly colored "vanity stripes" to your darker colored leathers. Wear a bright reflective vest over your jacket. Choose a brightly-colored helmet.
3. For night operation, add reflectors or reflective tape to the rear end of your sidecar and helmet. Choose riding gear with reflective patches.
4. When buying raingear, consider bright colors such as yellow, red or light blue.
One of the big advantages of sidecar outfits is that many people are curious about them. Other motorists seem to spot sidecar outfits more readily than two-wheeled motorcycles. But where we position the outfit in traffic also has much to do with how easy it is for other drivers to see us and for us to see them.
POSITIONING
Veteran sidecarists sometimes seem to wander all over the road. One minute they are over towards the right side of the lane, then they wander over to the left and the next thing you know they have meandered halfway across the fog line. To the novice, this may appear to be inattention or lazy control habits, but there may be good reasons for moving around in the lane or even changing lanes. The veteran understands the importance of adjusting position to provide the best view of the situation ahead, to increase separation from other vehicles and to make themselves most visible to other drivers. Where you position your motorcycle in the flow of traffic is perhaps more important than what color you paint it or whether you have your headlight turned on.
Consider the following positioning tactics:
1. Avoid the "blind spots" of other vehicles. Blind spots are those sectors where the driver can''t see you easily, typically the left and right rear quarters. The smart rider either changes lane position to increase separation, moves ahead where the motorcycle can be seen by the other driver or drops back a couple of seconds.
2. Stay out from behind big boxy vehicles such as trucks, busses or motorhomes. You can''t see what''s happening ahead. More importantly, other drivers can''t see that you''re there. A motorist intent on turning behind one of those big boxes may not suspect that a sidecar rig is hiding there. Worse yet, you don''t have a good view of the left turner. For similar reasons, be very wary about passing a big box that is waiting to make a turn.
3. Maintain at least two seconds distance between your machine and the vehicle ahead, even if it is just a small car. That''s the minimum separation you need to avoid a rear-ender if the driver suddenly jams on the brakes. It is helpful to actually count out the two seconds rather than just guess. When the car ahead passes some stationary point such as a pavement break, start counting: "one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two". If your front tire crosses the same point after the "two", you are at least two seconds behind, which is the minimum separation for any speed. Counting out following distance is especially important at night, because the human eye has trouble judging distances in dim light, especially lights in the red spectrum--which happens to include tail lights.
Two seconds is the minimum safe following distance to allow reaction time plus room to stop. If you don''t have a good view ahead or the roadway is slick from rain or if another driver is tailgating you, increase following distance to at least four seconds.
Cornering Lines
On a curving road, consider that tighter turns require more traction and cause the outfit to sway more. While a sidecar rig needs more road space than a two-wheeler, the sidecar driver can often follow cornering lines that maximize traction and minimize sway and roll.
A large part of smart cornering is choosing a path of travel or "line" with the most gradual curves. Successful cornering also depends on how we control the throttle and brakes and how we balance the rig, but for now let''s consider smarter cornering lines.
Where possible, enter curves farther towards the outside edge of the lane. That position allows you to follow the straightest line and also provides the best view of the road around the corner.
We tend to steer the vehicle towards where we are looking and we are tempted to stare at the inside edge of the pavement as it rolls into view. But that''s not where we want to point the outfit. One technique for choosing a smart cornering line is to imagine a "window" through which the outfit must pass. The critical window is towards the outside of the curve entry. By looking at the imaginary window rather than the inside edge, it is easier to steer the rig where it ought to go. In multiple curves, keep your head up and look towards the next curves, not down at the road in front of you. Remember, the machine will go where you are looking.
Choosing smart cornering lines takes a lot more mental effort than simply cruising down the center of your lane, but the payoff is having much better control of the outfit when the road suddenly makes a tighter turn than expected or the surface slants off in the wrong direction.
Positioning is important, both to improve the view and to reduce the risks we encounter while cornering.

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